Page 8 of 11

Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:45 am
by Brennig
Can't wait to see the finished board, diy jobs are so cool. SO SO SO close to ordering my materials, just waiting for timber suppliers to get back to me. I should be ordering the vacuum press over the weekend, along with some epoxy and titebond 3. Hopefully my friend will kindly sell me some triax fiberglass and give me a few tips. First board will be a longboard mini, I need one and it's an easy place to start. Second will hopefully be a freeride longboard, with a balsa core, BB stringer and triax. If all goes to plan, the next board will be a MOUNTAIN BOARD :O made the same as the freeride board, except with CF instead of glass. I have enough money now, just need to do it.

Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 1:17 pm
by belac
sounds good brennig, wish i had the time and resources to start making my own boards from scratch. i did look into it with a longboard manufacturer and we had some really nice designs planned, but they spent a year promising alot and delivering fuck all. the best way to get something done is to do it yourself, so the vac bag sounds like the way forward.

the magic question with bagging tho is tip angle (i realise that this is what she said:p) if you can get round the magic 30 degrees without delams at the bends then your onto a winner, and if you can do that with progressive concave then you may have my daughters hand in matrimony. if not then your having to look at built in risers to use modern mountainboard trucks.

remember to send a link to your build to this thread :)

Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 10:55 pm
by Felix_the_Gat
sir seymour wrote:Ah, thought i could smell arsehole.

It's your upper lip.

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:22 am
by sir seymour
glad to see you're back to spread joy throughout the community! Have a big man hug.

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:09 am
by Brennig
Baltic Birch on the brink of being ordered, vacuum press being ordered tonight. I'll have enough birch for some 15 boards. Hopefully I'll have a board finished within two weeks depending on how long it takes for the wood to arrive.

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 11:10 am
by Brennig
Vacuum press = ordered. Ordering the wood tomorrow.

About £55 in total for the vacuum press, not bad if you ask me. Only suitable for wood at the moment but only some £10-20 off a full composite set-up.

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 5:52 am
by Brennig
Wood = ordered, should be here on Friday. Just got glue to order and some sealant. So so very close.

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 2:13 pm
by belac
heya bg, recieved the trucks, thanks heaps for that, your a gent :)
have decided to go with some fireball slide wheels rather than pnumatics for now, so just trying to source the 4 extra bearings i need, but chap i know in the kite sceene is helping out. will have a go with the 8" in time, but just wanna make sure i don't bend the trucks straight away.
also gotta try blagging some old kitesurf bindings for it now.

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:10 pm
by BgSurfer
Glad the trucks made it. Did the foam blocks keep the axles from poking through the box?
Let us see a pic when the beast is patched together frankenstyle. :cool:

Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 10:33 am
by BgSurfer
Just saw this post. Brennig and I had a short discussion about vac bags and MB tip angles.
The photo tutorial link for vac bagging with external molds is active again:

http://ministryofwood.com/external-mold-build/

belac wrote:the magic question with bagging tho is tip angle (i realise that this is what she said:p) if you can get round the magic 30 degrees without delams at the bends then your onto a winner, and if you can do that with progressive concave then you may have my daughters hand in matrimony. if not then your having to look at built in risers to use modern mountainboard trucks.

remember to send a link to your build to this thread :)


BgSurfer wrote:You can use vac bags for the deep tip angles of an MB, just not with the form in the bag. You would have to put the bagged wood over a form and then clamp/pull it down into/over the form. The form has to be fairly rigid though. As Sir Seymour said, you may have to press only a few of the wood layers at one time. Roarockit has a photo tutorial (dead link right now) for external forms.

For clamping, you have to have some rigidness to the form. The point pressure at several points in the form will exceed foam compression pressure while clamping down. I have come up with an idea for foam+rib hybrid for clamping.

Roarockit tutorial page, photo tutorials at bottom (all photo tutorial links dead at the moment):

http://roarockit.com/rc_resources.php


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Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 11:22 am
by Brennig
I've been thinking a bit about the vac bag, mine's got a big leak somewhere, probably the sealing tape. I'm using a thin nylon vac bag and using sealing tape with it is a nightmare, it's ridiculous. I've found someone that sells TAP kits over here but it's £100 for one and that's just a bit silly. I can still use mine but as it's leaky I doubt I'll be able to pull any demanding shapes. I did a quick search on hydraulic presses and they turned out to be a lot cheaper than buying a TAP kit.

I'm thinking of using a hydraulic kit to form the wood core then using my leaky vac bag to add composites. Lots of people add composites without the aid of a vac bag so I should imagine a leaky vac bag would be fine.

I could almost get a electric vac for the price of the TAP bag but even using a simple vac bag is frustrating enough. Although my board turned out perfectly it's just a real pain in the butt.

Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 11:31 am
by Brennig
Or maybe I should just by the TAP kit, argh, I don't know.

Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 11:39 am
by BgSurfer
Everybody at Sivlerfish says Teds TAPS are high grade -- thick plastic that holds up well for many builds. If I ever try it, I will probably buy a Tap bag and vacu-vin from Ted now that he has a distributor based in the US.

Thin bags are good for glassing, even if they leak, as long as your vacuum pump has a pressure sensor that kicks it on when pressure drops to low. But you have to have a vac pump/motor that can tolerate continuous operation without overheating. For glassing, you only need to maintain a vacuum long enough for the resin to set (2-3 hours).

Even with a hydraulic press, it is hard to match the pressure and the eveness of pressing of a vac bag at 14 psi (depending on altitude).

I am working out all of my design testing with removable tips first. Then I may try making a foam-wood rib mold for external mold vac bagging for the refined design. I'd like to try vac-bagging just for the fun of it anyway -- someday when I'm too old to ride. ;) :rolleyes: :D :eek:


~~~~~

Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 11:55 am
by Brennig
Yeah, I'm stuggling to find a thick vinyl bag as an alternative to the TAP.

I think it would be nice to press the core without worrying about leaks, sealing tape, epoxy, composites and so on first, and then concentrate on epoxy and glass afterwards with my leaky bag. I could then use an elastic vac bag (I can get them easily) to press on the composites without having to worry about the mold and shape.

Also keep in mind I'm using 1/8 BB so even pressure isn't a must.

Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:12 pm
by belac
I'm stuggling to find a thick vinyl bag as an alternative to the TAP.


apparently cheap shower curtain folded in half and cut to size is one of the best.

and as for a pressure sensor that will kick in when the atmosphere changes but not blow up - find an old fridge and take out the compressor, bit of gaffa tape and bobs your unkle.

frankenvacs!:)

Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:43 pm
by Brennig
Found some polyethylene that's half the thickness of a TAP bag, my current one is 100 times thinner :O Really can't be bothered with the fridge compressor thing, it probably works a treat but I live in the middle of the middle of nowhere. I'll look more into it along with the shower curtain thing. I'm drawn between carrying on with the vac or getting a hydraulic, arghh! I hate making decisions.

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 8:02 pm
by belac
Image
Image

was doing someting else frankenboardy and came across some bearings i needed for the board above, so shoved them on and had a skate about on the deck.

glad i did cos it saved me putting the bindings on the worst board ever built! somehow i have managed to create a monster. if you put toeside pressure on this thing it goes heelside:eek::confused:. oh well, i'll keep it for when me and mates are a bit pissed, should be a laugh to see who can make it to the bottom of the village hill in one piece.

back to the drawing board.

ps bill, don't thret once i've thought of a way round it i'll put these trucks to a good use;)

Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:16 am
by Brennig
The carbon looks lovely jubely. Unfortunate about how it rides but it looks like good fun. They're on the wrong way round by the way.

Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:17 am
by Alex's Phat Wheelz
Don't know if you know but the trucks are on the wrong way around might account for why the board is turning the wrong ways

Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 9:26 am
by Kiwy
Alex's Phat Wheelz wrote:Don't know if you know but the trucks are on the wrong way around might account for why the board is turning the wrong ways


Coming from a skateboard background that's what i noticed firsthand.

The trucks are long. Do you have any problems with the wheels biting your shoes? Also is one of the trucks bent?