On Egg Placement:
I think the inner spring position makes a big difference with Matrix channels -- looser than old-style MBS channels. Matrix channels also ride a little higher than the old-style MBS channels, allowing a tighter lean angle/turn (combined with inside spring position). My theory used to be that with the wheels further out they could define a tighter circle. Probably also because of better traction too (wider wheel base/tracking). Finally, my blue Comp 16 deck has 35 degree tip angles which allows tighter turns too.
The Matrix springs aren't as stiff/tight as the old-style channels -- much looser. The top truck is higher on the Matrix and gives some extra lean.
Fine tuning this beastie will keep me busy for the next 6 months -- wasn't really looking for tighter carve. Will probably switch out the yellow eggs up front with orange, immediately. Next I will be playing with all reds at inside positions and then rear springs in the outside position with softer eggs.
I'm lovin it. Something all new and unexpected to play with again.
After second session:
Switched out the front inside yellows and replaced them with oranges (reds rear). Took most of the twitch (looseness) out of the nose for longer, wider arcs. Still carves as tight as before so far as I can tell. I'm going to need more than a 17% grade to push this sidewinder hard enough. I'll ride with it this way a while than try reds up front and rear.
Now:
Bought a second set of 18" Matrix Wides to play with on Gen I and Gen II Razor Decks -- wider than the late model blue Comp 16. Want to try smaller tip angles and wider decks.
The blue Comp 16 has bigger tip angles (35 degrees) than the Razors (I = 25 degrees, II = 30 degrees). I suspect the bigger tip angles on the Comp 16 are contributing significantly to the tighter carve.
Stiffer rear eggs:
I started out with no eggs at all spring positions for carving but added yellows to keep the top and bottom trucks from banging metal on metal (old-style MBS channels). Was getting a lot of tail drift both ways (without and with yellows) in really tight, hard-lean cutbacks.
Stiffer rear eggs/shocks give more stability with speed imo.
I feel like rear traction/tracking are better also -- keeps more pressure on the rear tires. Improves hard-lean carving.
For hard lean carving the nose needs to be relatively loose to initiate tight cutbacks. Lean into the nose at the top of a 180 degree cutback. Shift your weight to the tail/rear in the bottom of the cutback (last half of the semi-circle).
On "Speed Wobble"
Speed wobble is a much debated topic.
The evidence suggests to me that it is mostly biological/psyhcological. Your ankles (knees, etc.) have kinesthetic receptors (nerves that send joint position information to the brain). A sudden instability causes them to send a message to your brain and a reflexive correction is sent back. For those who don't ride fast regularly, the reflex message sent back is usually an over-correction which magnifies the wobble -- setting up another reflexive over correction which magnifies the wobble further. Carving helps because the ankles and knees must tighten up for the the lean and this inhibits more reflex information to the brain.
Basically your ankles are a set of channel trucks riding on top of a set of channel trucks -- prefect set up for wobbles and reflex over correction. Loose trucks and soft egg shocks magnify the perceived wobble.
With training and equipment adjustments, many are able to focus through the wobble and keep going.
If you plan on going past 30 mph questing for 50+ mph, one would be wise to invest in body armour and/or leathers.
Hang loose ...
